hey guys, i have cleaned my battery cables, reset the computer (ECU). If the pedal doesn’t sink, you might be dealing with a broken or worn out brake booster. Your car needs a vacuum to run properly. Instead, remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster. Possible Symptoms. These are 2 different symptoms of different problems. I found some brake fluid in the vacuum hose connecting my brake power booster to my intake manifold. REPLACE damaged or leaking vacuum booster hoses. its extremely easydisconnect vacuum hose to booster. The recall should begin by the end of February, and owners can contact BMW at 1-800-525-7417 or. Without its help, the pressure on the brake pedal would be difficult to depress and stop the vehicle. Anyhow, in order provide vacuum to the PCV valve, I T'd the line from the intake so that I could share the same vacuum source between the PCV and the booster. com offers the lowest prices for genuine 2012 Ram 2500 parts. Set the new brake booster on the four mounting screws, and tighten the nuts on the bolts to the master cylinder. A failed check valve could allow vacuum out of the booster. The booster was a brand new motor craft booster, and the master cylinder was brand new as well. The Brakes are not releasing and there is no vacuum available to the brake booster. Check the Vacuum Hose for a blockage or leak; Inspect the Check Valve for cracks, looseness or damage ; Testing your Power Brake Booster: With the engine off, pump the brakes 5-6 times ; Turn the engine on while pushing down lightly on the brake pedal ; If your brake booster is working, the pedal will sink down about ¼”. - Nick at Pelican Parts. 7 kPa (20 mmHg, 0. Hose Candy's™ Bullet Proof Brake Booster Hose is the absolute best brake booster hose in the world. Some reference threads I found in my searching:-How the smart brake booster works-Where is the smart brake booster-Brake vacuum hose leak! Thoughts?. To perform an internal leak test on a vacuum power booster, let the engine idle and apply the brake pedal with firm pressure. I'm not familiar with Volvo's but I assume the vacuum switch is either installed on the booster or it's inline with a vacuum hose. Install the new hose clamps where used. Vacuum leaks are often the elusive needle in a haystack. A GM brake vacuum pump lawsuit alleges Cadillac, Chevrolet and GMC vehicles have problems with the brake boosters and hard brake pedals as part of defective braking systems. Vacuum comes from the vacuum pump; located on the driver's side of the head. P/N is 7L5-611-931 G. If there is no vacuum, the check valve is not functioning properly. There is a seal between the booster and the master cylinder that often goes bad. The cause of this could be: A. Hydraulic pressure rises instantly to between 1000 and 2000 p. If the hose has a good suction and no other leaks are found, clamp the hose once again to slow the vacuum loss and push the one-way valve back into the vacuum booster. Chevrolet Silverado 2007-2013: How to Find Vacuum Leak. Z1 Motorsports Silicone Brake Booster Hose Kit for all '07-'08 350Z models. If you feel that your brakes don’t have sufficient stopping power, there could be an issue with the brake booster vacuum hose. (Part 1k0612041kc), I bought the $52 replacement, and got the brake booster end of the hose detached just fine. To perform an internal leak test on a vacuum power booster, let the engine idle and apply the brake pedal with firm pressure. If the hose fittings do not leak, go to step 5. If the refill fails to occur, check your hose and replace if it is faulty. Here you can see the oil leaking from my pump, this was after 200 miles after i cleaned it off. The 2001 Ford Escape has 1 problems reported for brake booster vacuum leak. What are the brake booster vacuum reserve tanks? Can I connect the brake booster vacuum hose directly into the alternator vacuum pump? And will it work just fine like that and on a regular daily driving (home to work and back on traffic)? Or do I need that tanks for sure?. However, on a whim, I clamped off the vacuum hose to the brake booster, and don't you know, the long term values went right down: 3. like i said i'm not trying to be a smart ass as some people on the forums are but i took everything that was told to me in consideration, did some research and. Apply the brake pedal with approximately 100lbs force and hold while checking hydro-boost hose fittings for leaks. Check valve (arrow indicates direction of flow through valve) 13. (NOTE: This is the hose running between the booster and its externally mounted filter generally found in the cab. I have narrowed it down by removing the main vacuum line from the booster and plugging it -- then I get up to 20 on the mity vac, and all works great. Vacuum comes from the vacuum pump; located on the driver's side of the head. Any ideas what I should do before taking it off and sen. is this a bad brake booster even though its not leaking?. With the Ford engine running, this hose should be pulled and the amount of vacuum being supplied to it tested or checked. Remove the line that provides the A/C. Remove this and slide the hose out from the rear of the brake housing. Sometimes it cracks and leaks. The noise is typically caused by a leaking brake booster. Also, a vacuum booster only uses one hose and does not require any clamps. ABS and engine lights are on. (Part 1k0612041kc), I bought the $52 replacement, and got the brake booster end of the hose detached just fine. Hg) or more after 30 seconds, check following parts for leaks. If the brake applications are power assisted there is no leak. not to smash on anyone but all the searching i have done if your pedal is hard to push its the brake booster, and if it goes down all the way its a leaking line or master cylinder. Notice how no one here actually diagnosed vacuum leaks in the brake booster. Used some hockey tape while on the road!! On 2002 Jaguar X-Type. Your car's brake booster is a vacuum servo that uses the pressure from your intake to compound the force applied to the master cylinder from your brake pedal. To me that seems to point to a bad brake booster. My understanding is that if there was an airlock, my brake pedal would be squishy, so I've been sort of ruling that and water-logged brake fluid out. Then check the brakes. So it depends where the vacuum leak occurs. A good booster should be able to hold a vacuum for 5 minutes or longer. First, check all your vacuum hoses/ lines. PM's Senior Automotive Editor, Mike Allen, outlines the tools and techniques proven to smoke out even the toughest to find vacuum leaks. I read somewhere that the vacuum hose from the transmission goes to the booster check valve. It's a removable plastic stem valve. You are eligible for a full refund if no ShippingPass-eligible orders have been placed. Its got a center joint as well. The next most likely suspect is the power brake booster. Two types of vacuum leaks can be diagnosed with an analyzer. Loosen the two nuts securing the master cylinder to the booster if this hose isn't leaking and start the engine. Unplug the booster hose and put a bolt in the hose to stop the vacuum. Cleared code, seems ok. The pedal went all the way to the floor when driving. Stop engine and shift transmission into Neutral. You can see the old hose's yellow plastic piece is missing. For more help read our post on Vacuum Leak Detection – The Safe Way to Find Leaks. Restricted air filter on power brake booster. BMW Australia’s Scott Croaker told CarAdvice that as the issue is due to a fault with the vacuum hose linking the engine to the booster, rather than with the booster itself, older vehicles. BMW E24, E32, AND E31 MODELS, ALSO SOME AUDIS. The power brakes quit operating. Vacuum leak somewhere. Ford F-150 owners have reported 19 problems related to power assist brake vacuum hoses, lines/piping, and fittings (under the service brakes category). Remove this and slide the hose out from the rear of the brake housing. It could be a leaking vacuum hose to the power brake booster or the membrane in the booster could have a hole. If you do or suspect it to be cracked, replace it. Minimum engine vacuum required is 18"HG at idle in gear. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the check valve and attach a piece of tubing. I found some brake fluid in the vacuum hose connecting my brake power booster to my intake manifold. once the brake booster vacuum reserve is depleted, the driver will havefoundation brake function, but with increased brake pedal effort. With each application, pedal travel should begin to decrease. 0T FSI) by Genuine OEM now! Replaces 1K0612041GM, 1K0612041CH. The master-cylinder reservoir keeps the pipes supplied with fluid. If there is no power assist the booster is defective and must be replaced. Check to see if the line attached to 'vac' port is pulling >25inHg vacuum. Follow the hose from the brake booster to the pump, you may also have a vacuum reservoir. I've removed the existing vacuum lines (which had leaks in TWO places!) and I've attached photos of them. Wait 90 seconds and apply the brakes. The Problem: When the brake booster vacuum sensor fails, it will stop monitoring the power brake operation and alerting drivers to low-vacuum situations. If the hissing noise disappears, replace the booster. Reconnect or replace this hose as necessary. The booster is located between the master brake cylinder and firewall in the engine compartment. Also comes with everything needed for brake bleeding. com offers the lowest prices for genuine 2012 Ram 2500 parts. If testing Comes ready to install with brake pushrod and vacuum check valve Meets or exceeds OEM quality standards. Anyone else have this issue?. A fitting that the hose size matches you GM booster vacuum hose. It's old and has original clamps. Tested the brake booster and it seems to be working well. If that checks out put a vacuum gauge on the switch supply and check for leak down and check the source vacuum as well. Braking system Hydraulic pressure is passed down the brake pipes to each wheel. Be careful not to break or damage the check valve. The same goes for the flexible hoses (don't forget the one over the back axle) but stone damage is always a possibility. A leaking or broken Brake Booster Vacuum Hose won't get the vacuum flowing from the engine to the booster and might result in reduced amount of assist or total failure of the braking system. 7 kPa (20 mmHg, 0. This will fix or help prevent vacuum leaks at the hose ends. Replace the vacuum hose, and retest. If the booster is holding vacuum, you will hear a loud whooshing noise. booster mounting plate nuts in an X pattern to 18 N·m (159 in. Vacuum to booster is good. The booster is located between the master brake cylinder and firewall in the engine compartment. Place hose from vacuum pump onto check valve and draw booster to 20" of vacuum. Note: Excessive pedal travel or poor engine running may be indications of a vacuum leak or other problem. If this is not the exact Brake Booster Vacuum Hose (Auto Trans) you are looking for, or you would like this part in a brand other than Genuine SAAB, please call us at (800) 467-9769 and one of our customer service experts will help you locate the exact part you need. this is my hunch. Be careful not to break or damage the check valve. Don't forget to plug any vacuum going to the power brake booster, as it can certainly leak just like any other vacuum component can. If the vacuum level at the check valve is 18" check that the booster check valve is working. Finally, remove the brake booster completely. If the engine is idling rough remove the vacuum hose from the booster check valve and close the open hose end. If the area is obstructed by linkage or hoses, use an extension nozzle to pinpoint the area of the vacuum leak. A second method is to spray brake or carburetor cleaner around the area of a potential leak. The check valve allows for sufficient vacuum supply in the booster, eliminates an engine 'vacuum leak' when maximum vacuum is reached and retains vacuum in the booster with engine off or when accelerating. Now check for signs of brake fluid leak between the brake booster and brake. Will any vacuum leak cause the rpm to rise when the brakes are applied, or does it only happen when theres a vacuum leak in the brake booster. These are 2 different symptoms of different problems. Buy this Audi, VW Brake Booster Hose (A3 TT Jetta GTI Passat EOS, 2. The part of the hose that connects to the connector on the intake manifold (not sure what its called, it looks like a spout of some sort) rotated upward as I was connecting it. If this smooths out the idle the booster has a major vacuum leak and should be replaced. Then, the next time your brakes lock up, pull over and disconnect that. These parts include: the brake booster, cruise control, popup headlights, heating and A/C vents, exhaust re-circulatory valve, exhaust by-pass valves, and the crank case/ valve cover vent. like i said i'm not trying to be a smart ass as some people on the forums are but i took everything that was told to me in consideration, did some research and. Check valve; Vacuum hose, pipe; Seals; Brake booster; Master cylinder. This situation is usually a result of a broken clamp, loose hoses, or cracked vacuum hose connections. A spongy feel or increased pedal travel as you apply the footbrake could indicate a leak or air bubbles in the hydraulic brake system. If your brake pedal goes to the floor, confirm the master cylinder is full and there are no leaks. Don't forget to plug any vacuum going to the power brake booster, as it can certainly leak just like any other vacuum component can. Fuel pressure regulator. Troubleshooting vacuum leaks requires a close visual inspection of the hose, making sure it's properly connected, and listening for the telltale hissing sound of the vacuum leak. Trying to. Booster Vacuum Supply Test. If the brake applications are power assisted there is no leak. If I'm losing vacuum would that cause the loss of brake and run ability problems?. If I put the mityvac on the hose connecting everything else it holds a vacuum oh, but when I turn it on the booster it doesn't pull anything. Insufficient vacuum to power brake booster. The brake booster vacuum hose will be in behind the master cylinder, held in place with one nut. If your pedal slowly comes back, you have a vacuum leak. Carefully inspect the booster vacuum line and all it's clamps. Start the engine and bring the engine compartment to operation temperature. A leaking secondary cup on the primary piston. A good booster should be able to hold a vacuum for 5 minutes or longer. go inside truck. Replacing both is the only answer. I read somewhere that the vacuum hose from the transmission goes to the booster check valve. I can find boost gauges and cylinder pressure gauges but nobody sells a vacuum gauge. Adapters are available to convert from one ID to another, but it's typically best to use properly sized vacuum hoses whenever replacing them. Vacuum Leak Detection. Most vacuum hoses are thin and soft, except for the one used on the brake booster, which is thicker and more sturdy in design, and possibly the PCV hose. These hoses connect the brake booster to the upper intake manifold supplying the necessary vacuum. Start the engine and let it idle. With gas at $3. It should read 10" - 20" of vacuum. So it depends where the vacuum leak occurs. The brake booster should be discarded if it has been dropped. Sometimes this vacuum is blocked at the intake manifold port. When the brakes are applied, the booster is opened to the engine vacuum via the hose. A hydraulic booster has a high pressure hose that must use a high pressure fitting, and a low pressure hose that has to use hose clamps to prevent fluid leaks. eEuroparts. It is a metal canister that consists of a diaphragm and check valve. Now turn the engine off. What is the other port on the check valve for? Does it get capped?. A leaking or broken Brake Booster Vacuum Hose won't get the vacuum flowing from the engine to the booster and might result in reduced amount of assist or total failure of the braking system. I found some brake fluid in the vacuum hose connecting my brake power booster to my intake manifold. So it depends where the vacuum leak occurs. I have just over 15,000 miles now and an appointment with the dealer to have it looked at (going in for the recall anyway), but I thought I'd see if anyone else has had a similar. I converted my hoses to -AN fittings to eliminate some of my vacuum leaks which required a smaller hose diameter than oem. When servicing components near the vacuum pump, avoid contact with the plastic nipple that connects the vacuum pump to the brake booster hose. hey guys, i have cleaned my battery cables, reset the computer (ECU). Brake booster hose with check valve. If the brake applications are power assisted there is no leak. The problem that I'm having is that from what I've read this vacuum hose is 12mm ID, 13mm OD (this is what Ratwell says). We all love cams that have more lumps than grandma's oatmeal, but a vacuum-powered brake booster may not like it at all. These hoses connect the brake booster to the upper intake manifold supplying the necessary vacuum. A pedal will go to the floor completely based on hydraulic and mechanical operations. I connected one end to the brake booster and the other end to the intake manifold. There are two red connectors shown. Finally, remove the brake booster completely. If any one hose is bad, the others are likely ready to fail. Cut the 3/8” factory brake booster hose again and insert the supplied Y-connector (Fig. For more help read our post on Vacuum Leak Detection - The Safe Way to Find Leaks. This hose is responsible for making the connection between the master cylinder and the brakes themselves, and when there is a leak, your brake pedal will still feel firm, but the brakes will actually lack power behind them. If your manifold vacuum was low enough to cause ineffective braking you'd probably notice other problems first - low/rough idle, smoking etc. The vacuum hose connects from the pump directly to the brake vacuum booster with a supplied hose, and anyone with minimal electrical abilities can perform the install. With the Ford engine running, this hose should be pulled and the amount of vacuum being supplied to it tested or checked. The check valve on the brake booster hose (between L-hose and S-hose) is to keep vacuum in the brake booster. Be sure to plug the hose coming to the engine - the vacuum leak can damage the engine. Otherwise, check for a vacuum leak on the booster vacuum hose, on the hose fittings and on the booster itself. The leak can either be in the brake booster itself, a leak in the hose that connects to the intake manifold or it can be an engine vacuum leak. The mushy feeling is probably just not what you are accustomed to, and indicates a very good brake booster. I have ordered the brake power bleeder but I'm not sure if its a differnt issuse. It could be the hose going to it from the engine, the plastic connection for the hose at the booster, or the diaphragm in the booster itselfif you don't really know what you are looking for, the 69 dollars is not that much to find out what is giving you fits. Large Image | Extra-Large Image. If remove and plug the vacuum line to the brake booster this removes all vacuum to the booster. Adapters are available to convert from one ID to another, but it's typically best to use properly sized vacuum hoses whenever replacing them. The car fails a test that should show high vacuum when revved to 2500 rpms with the r port hose removed from the vacuum modulator and hose connected from that same port to the throttle body vacuum port. The big line thatcomes out of the vacuum pump leads to the brake booster. Although the amount of vacuum will vary by. Use brake parts cleaner to clean up any brake fluid and or cover the reservoir and clean the mess with water. If you take your time and carefully push down on the red connector, the vacuum tube is easily released. Power brake booster and brake pedal linkage binding caused by worn bushings or corrosion. If the level is. The Following Is A List Of The Most Common Vacuum Leak Repair. look under the hood and check the brake booster. The Problem: When the brake booster vacuum sensor fails, it will stop monitoring the power brake operation and alerting drivers to low-vacuum situations. Careful please!. Oct 20- A brake booster is simply a vacuum booster. “It had a huge vacuum leak and the engine just didn’t run properly. A power booster uses atmospheric pressure to help assist the pushing of the master cylinder piston. Disconnect it from the brake line, and take it to your local auto parts store to make sure you buy a properly fitting replacement. What I'm saying is if you try to measure vacuum near a leak, you'll read a very low vacuum. However, not all vacuum leak in the engine bay would cause a poor brake performance. This will cause the engine RPMS to increase when the cleaner is sprayed near the source. It *could* be a hose problem but it can also be a leaking booster. Dodge does this, we use the power steering pump instead. There should be vacuum available. The booster may be leaking internally if its killing your idle when your depressing the brake, try this: "Test the booster Since most vehicles use a vacuum system, the brake booster can be tested at your home. You can see that we've removed the nuts that hold the brake master cylinder to the booster, and we're moving the master cylinder out of the way. Brake booster fluid contamination. Has anyone else had a vacuum hose leak on their Xterra? I noticed the hose running from the master cylinder to the intake manifold leaking slightly at the manifold. Holds vacuum great and looks exactly like the BMW unit I would have used if I still had oem sized hoses. If the brake pedal feel is normal, then the power brake booster is OK. Release brake application, then remove atmospheric air hose from vacuum booster control valve. The problem may be due to insufficient vacuum getting to the booster. These parts include: the brake booster, cruise control, popup headlights, heating and A/C vents, exhaust re-circulatory valve, exhaust by-pass valves, and the crank case/ valve cover vent. Used some hockey tape while on the road!! On 2002 Jaguar X-Type. It uses a vacuum to overcome the fluid pressure in the braking system, which makes it easier to engage and activate. Under the hood, I disconnected the vacuum line from the brake booster and plugged the line. Verify correct operation of the brakes. The brake booster is the largest consumer of engine vacuum, and if the supply is leaking, the engine will not idle. I have an strange issue with my brake booster, i assume it´s the brake booster. Since by depressing the brake pedal gets an engine response I would tend to believe that the booster does not have a leak in the diaphragm, so most likely it is fine. NOTE: Do not try to disassemble the brake booster. A hydroboost power brake vehicle with a hard pedal can be the result of a belt that is loose on the power steering pump, fluid levels are low, power hoses leak or there are valves with leaks or faults on the hydroboost unit. This connection does not commonly leak, but the vacuum line can crack and lose vacuum, affecting the operation of the brakes. If you take your time and carefully push down on the red connector, the vacuum tube is easily released. My question is, this isn't normal for the brake booster, is it?. All joints in this line should be clamped and the rubber hose sections free of cracks or other damage. , If Ordered Now, Ships in 1 Business Day 100% guarantee. NOTE: ¥ Be careful not to drop the brake booster. The old original single cylinder master cylinder did its job 50 years ago, but by today’s standards this system is unsafe and unreliable. Since these cars will see both vacuum and pressure in there intake tracts, and manifolds, its best to check all lines for both vacuum and pressure leaks. There isn't really even a label for the brake booster vacuum, but it looks like it just plugs into the intake manifold. Anyway, my guess is that when you yanked the vacuum hose for the booster, it collapsed. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the booster check valve and check the vacuum level at this point with the engine running with a vacuum gauge. How to repair vacuum leaks. If your manifold vacuum was low enough to cause ineffective braking you'd probably notice other problems first - low/rough idle, smoking etc. If there is no vacuum, the check valve is not functioning properly. The leak can either be in the brake booster itself, a leak in the hose that connects to the intake manifold or it can be an engine vacuum leak. The booster is located between the master brake cylinder and firewall in the engine compartment. 6 lug may be less. Brake Booster + Other leak locations The vacuum line to the brake booster is clearly seen in the image below, highlighted in red, as well as in the first image. If the booster is working properly, the brake pedal will sink a little as the booster applies extra pressure. As diesels do not have a intake vacuum from a throttle blade you would need a big vac pump for a vacuum booster. Wondering if it is 11/32" or maybe larger? For those wondering i live an hour away from my car, and i may swing by the parts store tomorrow on my way up to work on the car, if i can figure out the size, Thanks!. More and more cars are moving to using an external brake vacuum pump to provide vacuum to the brake booster. The problem may be due to insufficient vacuum getting to the booster. If it does, pull the hose by the booster and plug it and see if the noise goes away. Install charcoal canister and bracket. Notice how no one here actually diagnosed vacuum leaks in the brake booster. Then start engine with moderate pressure on brake pedal and see if pedal does go down a bit as. Once you're certain all vacuum has been disconnected, check to see if the rough idle, hesitation, or overheating has been resolved. Now check for signs of brake fluid leak between the brake booster and brake. Started the car, and no hissing at all. Q13) What are the most common faults with brake boosters? A) Fault 1Ruptured Diaphragms in both Hydrovacs and. Holds vacuum great and looks exactly like the BMW unit I would have used if I still had oem sized hoses. Most likely due to heat exposure. If the pedal doesn’t sink, you might be dealing with a broken or worn out brake booster. Vacuum hoses are designed for specific places like brake booster or PCV. Over time this check valve can become brittle and crack causing leaks and inevitable brake system failure. (I have been losing some fluid). If it is vacuum. Can anyone confirm this is in fact the outlet for a hose going to the brake booster? Is it just a single piece of hose or am I missing something else also? Bonus question: All my cloth braided vacuum hose is in really poor condition. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose at the intake manifold by pressing down to release the securing clip. The Problem: When the brake booster vacuum sensor fails, it will stop monitoring the power brake operation and alerting drivers to low-vacuum situations. It is not stuck in the manifold. There are 2 outlets on the driver's side, one going to the brake booster and the other to a vacuum hose that trees off to various places that require vacuum. When the brakes are applied, the booster is opened to the engine vacuum via the hose. The booster may be leaking internally if its killing your idle when your depressing the brake, try this: "Test the booster Since most vehicles use a vacuum system, the brake booster can be tested at your home. Install the new hose clamps where used. Average repair cost is $650 at 88,500 miles. Hydraulic pressure rises instantly to between 1000 and 2000 p. Brake Pedal feels hard when pushing on the brakes - This indicates that your brake booster is not working properly or is leaking. Does anyone have pics of the fitting that goes into the manifold for the vacuum source for the brake booster? I need to see how the hoses are routed. With forced induction cars this method could be argued as the best. Your using air that has not been metered by the MAF, and by doing this you are most likely running lean. Removing the fragile brake booster line from the manifold and booster pump is so easy that it may be a smart step to include disconnecting these line ends in any engine bay work to be performed in the vicinity of the lines. Vacuum leaks will cause an erratic idle and acceleration issues, among other things. is this a bad brake booster even though its not leaking?. There are two red connectors shown. While trying to trace down a vacuum leak because the engine won't shut off, tested about every little vacuum path then lastly, disconnected the brake booster. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the booster check valve and check the vacuum level at this point with the engine running with a vacuum gauge. Good brake pedal but booster does not provide boost. If your vacuum-type brake booster has failed, most likely you'll have to replace it with a new or rebuilt unit. If there is no difference in the idle then I think your cam is to big to run power brakes unless you use and. If it is vacuum. Hg) or more after 30 seconds, check following parts for leaks. A pedal will go to the floor completely based on hydraulic and mechanical operations. Will any vacuum leak cause the rpm to rise when the brakes are applied, or does it only happen when theres a vacuum leak in the brake booster. The Brakes are not releasing and there is no vacuum available to the brake booster. Cleared code, seems ok. Otherwise, check for a vacuum leak on the booster vacuum hose, on the hose fittings and on the booster itself. Z1 Motorsports Silicone Brake Booster Hose Kit for all '07-'08 350Z models. Brake booster fluid contamination. It is a plastic line that then meets a metal line. Electrical connections are simple: a ground and power wire directly to a battery source, and an ignition source for the relay and switch. Vacuum hoses are designed for specific places like brake booster or PCV. the question is: Is the vacuum leak exclusive to the brake booster? Its hard to put what im asking on paper. Start the engine and run at idle speed. Instead, remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster. My understanding is that if there was an airlock, my brake pedal would be squishy, so I've been sort of ruling that and water-logged brake fluid out. com® proudly offers wholesale prices and fast shipping available on most orders. You can repair small hose leaks by chopping off the damaged. Here's a picture of the old and new hose as well as the new o-ring and snap-on cap, which attaches to the non-replaceable (I'm assuming) plastic piece that is broken on the intake manifold.